Guide
How to draught-proof a rented flat without damaging it (UK)
Cold draughts but worried about your deposit? What UK renters can fix without permission, what needs the landlord's OK, and how to take it all down cleanly.
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Short answer: yes, you can draught-proof a rented flat. Most of what a renter needs – door excluders, curtains, letterbox covers, peel-off strips and window film – sits in place or comes off cleanly, so it doesn't change the property. Anything screwed, nailed, glued, filled or sealed in place is a change to the building, so ask your landlord in writing first. And whatever you do, don't block the vents.
Find the draughts first
Before you buy anything, spend ten minutes on a cold, windy day finding where the air actually gets in. Hold the back of your hand close to each likely gap and move it slowly – you'll feel the cold air. A strip of tissue paper held between finger and thumb also flutters in a draught. There's no need for candles or incense: a naked flame near curtains is a fire risk.
The usual suspects in a UK flat:
- Windows – the gap where the opening part meets the frame, and around old sash windows.
- The front door – the gap underneath, the edges, the letterbox and the keyhole.
- Floors and skirting – gaps between bare floorboards and under the skirting boards.
- An unused fireplace – an open chimney pulls warm air straight out of the room.
- Internal doors to rooms you don't heat. The Energy Saving Trust says these only need draught-proofing where they lead to a room you don't normally heat – otherwise just keep them shut.
Make a quick list, room by room. It also comes in handy if you end up asking your landlord to fix something.
No-permission, no-trace fixes
These don't fix anything to the building, so they don't change the property and you can take them with you when you move. Start here.
Under-door draught excluder
The Energy Saving Trust suggests a brush or hinged-flap excluder for the gap under a door – but those screw on. In a rental, a twin-sided excluder that slides under the door and moves with it does the same job with no fixings. A rolled-up towel works in a pinch.
A heavy door curtain on a tension rod
A thick curtain across the front door or a draughty hall doorway blocks a lot of cold air. Hang it from a strong tension rod inside the frame or an existing rail, rather than drilling for a new pole.
Push-in letterbox cover
An internal letterbox cover with brushes that presses or sticks on behind the flap stops the whistle without swapping any hardware. Measure your letterbox first – the Energy Saving Trust says the same.
Thermal curtains or thermal linings
Thicker curtains, or a thermal lining clipped to the ones you already have, help keep the warmth in at night. Draw them at dusk and open them in the day so windows can dry out.
A big rug over gappy floorboards
Filling gaps between floorboards means mastic or filler, which is a landlord job. A large rug with a non-slip underlay covers the worst of it and goes with you when you move.
Removable window insulation film
A clear film kit is stuck to the window frame with double-sided tape, then tightened with a hairdryer – a bit like temporary secondary glazing. The tape can lift paint, so test it on a hidden bit of frame first and take it down slowly, warming the tape as you go.
For more ways to keep warm – heated throws, electric blankets, radiator reflectors – see more ways to stay warm in a cold rented flat.
Draughty windows: what to use in a rental
For windows that open, the Energy Saving Trust's advice is to fit draught-proofing strips around the frame to close the gap between the window and the frame. Its pointers:
- Self-adhesive foam strips are cheap and easy to fit but may not last long.
- Brush or wiper strips (metal or plastic) last longer but cost more.
- Match the size to the gap. Too thick and the strip gets squashed or the window won't close; too thin and the gap stays open.
- Sliding sash windows: brush strips, or a professional.
- Fixed windows that don't open: silicone sealant.
In a rental, self-adhesive strips are the usual DIY choice because they don't need screws. They can still pull paint or leave glue behind, so stick one short piece on a hidden part of the frame, leave it a few days, then peel it off to see what happens. Brush strips that are pinned or screwed in, any work on a sash window, and silicone around a fixed window are all permanent – ask your landlord.
Self-adhesive foam strips
The cheap, quick option for casement windows and door edges. Measure the gap when the window is shut and pick a strip thickness to match.
Self-adhesive brush or rubber seal
Longer-lasting than foam. Choose a self-adhesive version rather than one that is nailed or screwed on, and test the adhesive first.
What needs your landlord's OK – and keep the vents clear
A simple test: if it's screwed, nailed, glued, filled or sealed in place, ask first. That covers floorboard filler and mastic, caulk around skirting boards, new letterbox or keyhole hardware, pinned brush strips, sealant around windows and anything done to a chimney. Ask by email so you have a dated record of the request and the answer.
In England and Wales, private tenants have had a right since April 2016 to ask their landlord's consent to certain energy efficiency improvements, under the Energy Efficiency (Private Rented Property) Regulations 2015. GOV.UK says the landlord can't unreasonably refuse, and that the right depends on the tenant securing suitable funding for the work. Shelter gives draught-proofing as an example of such an improvement. This is a formal process, so check the details with Shelter or Citizens Advice before relying on it – most landlords are happy to agree to small, cheap fixes if you just ask.
Don't block ventilation. Draught-proofing stops uncontrolled air leaks; your flat still needs controlled ventilation. The Energy Saving Trust says not to block extractor fans, underfloor grilles or air bricks, wall vents or trickle vents (which should normally stay open all the time), and that rooms with open fires, flues or certain gas heaters must stay ventilated. Kitchens and bathrooms shouldn't be sealed up. Blocking vents can make condensation and mould worse – our guide on whether condensation is your landlord's responsibility explains why, and dehumidifiers for rented flats help if the air is already damp.
A digital hygrometer
Once you've sealed the draughts, a small humidity monitor tells you if the flat is getting too damp and when to open a window. Dated readings are useful if you need to raise damp with your landlord.
When it's the landlord's job – and moving out
Strips and curtains are for gaps. Broken seals, rotten or warped frames, windows that won't shut properly, and gaps that let in rain are repairs. Shelter's advice is to report repairs to your landlord in writing so you have a record, keep photos, give a reasonable deadline, and contact the council's private renting team if problems go unfixed. Don't arrange repairs yourself without written agreement – Shelter warns your landlord could charge you for the work.
It's also worth looking up your flat's energy rating on the GOV.UK energy certificate register. Shelter says private rented homes in England and Wales generally need an EPC rating of at least E unless an exemption applies.
At move-out: take everything down a week or two before your check-out so you have time to deal with marks. Peel strips and film tape slowly and close to the surface; warming old adhesive with a hairdryer on a low setting helps it let go. Clean any leftover glue gently with a soft cloth, testing your cleaner on a hidden spot first, and photograph the frames and walls afterwards.
Adhesive remover for leftover glue
For sticky residue on glass or uPVC frames, a citrus-based adhesive remover lifts it without scraping. Test it on a hidden area first – some removers can mark painted wood.
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FAQ
Can I draught-proof my rented flat without asking?
Things that don't fix to the building – excluders, curtains on tension rods, rugs, push-in letterbox covers – are generally fine. For anything stuck, screwed, filled or sealed, check your tenancy agreement and ask your landlord in writing first.
Do I need landlord permission to draught-proof?
For permanent changes, yes, ask first. In England and Wales tenants can formally request consent for certain energy efficiency improvements, and the landlord can't unreasonably refuse – but the tenant usually has to arrange funding. Shelter and Citizens Advice can explain how it applies to you.
Will draught strips damage window frames?
They can. Self-adhesive strips can lift paint or leave glue, especially on painted wood. Test a short piece on a hidden part of the frame, and remove them slowly with gentle heat.
How do I draught-proof a sash window in a rental?
The Energy Saving Trust recommends brush strips or a professional for sliding sash windows. Because that usually means fixing strips into the frame, it's a job to agree with your landlord. In the meantime, thermal curtains and removable film help.
Sources
- Energy Saving Trust – How to draught-proof your windows and doors
- Energy Saving Trust – Draught proofing (ventilation guidance, updated May 2026)
- GOV.UK – Tenant's energy efficiency improvements provisions: guidance
- Shelter England – Minimum energy performance standards for rented homes
- Shelter England – What to do if your private landlord won't do repairs
- Oxford City Council – Energy efficiency advice for private tenants
- GOV.UK – Find an energy certificate